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Author Topic : When are sessions useless?
 Jovileaboxers
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9/11/2020 3:43:36 PM reply with quote send message to Jovileaboxers Object to Post   

I was just wondering at what point you stop sessioning a dog.
Obviously *JUST* reaching 20 doesn't mean the dog is as sessioned as it could be, and I continue sessioning that trait for a few days extra.
But is there a point where further sessioning doesn't matter...the dog is maxed out for that trait? I want to give my specials a leg up, but don't want to waste sessions either.
 XiZang
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9/11/2020 5:56:48 PM reply with quote send message to XiZang Object to Post

I don't really know. I session all the dogs I am currently showing (until 120 days), then I keep the bitches on 1171 (to keep condition high) if I plan on breeding them. Once the males are over 120 I usually put them on plain adult food.
 residential
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9/12/2020 5:16:25 PM reply with quote send message to residential Object to Post

I session to 17 on coat and exercise, and 20 plus five days on training. The coat and exercise add up with food to their max even without sessions at that point, and usually before training hits 20. All assuming they eat 1777.
 gaylanstudio
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9/13/2020 8:12:33 PM reply with quote send message to gaylanstudio Object to Post

I session everything if I can concentrating on the Obedience especially with new dogs.

On good food the other three elements will go up without sessioning but they seem to go up faster when they have been sessioned up to a certain point to get them started.

Obedience is not influenced by food. Condition is totally dependant on it.

I continue to session obedience for three or four days after it hits 20. Grooming and exercise I will session until they reach 20 if I have the sessions to do it, otherwise once these get to 10 to 15 they can be left to go up on their own.
 Marquetry
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9/15/2020 2:33:36 PM reply with quote send message to Marquetry Object to Post

Training definitely needs to be sessioned for some time after reaching 20. The other traits don't need to be to the same extent, but a few days certainly wouldn't hurt!

 residential
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9/16/2020 4:27:23 PM reply with quote send message to residential Object to Post

Now that I'm on my laptop I want to expand on my previous answer to this post.

A 1-7-7-7 food will improve condition, coat, and exercise to the max level without additional sessions. If you place a dog that has a fully conditioned dam (of any breed--I've worked with may of them) on 1-7-7-7 puppy, and move them to adult at the appropriate time, they will develop to max in everything but training if you take them completely off sessions once they hit 17 in a given trait. Once they hit 20 in training, they will be at max level in everything.

If you are short on cash, this is an excellent strategy and has worked for me for the decade+ I've been playing. It's very important to have the cash for 1777 food.

Once you hit the max level in everything affected by food (usually by the time you've finished training), you can flip to Pet House, which will sustain their stats but not improve them. Again, if you're broke, an effective change.

Training I continue to 20+5 days (though usually more as I don't always catch it.)

I'm not broke in any of my accounts now, but when I was this was how I shaved $$ off my feed bill and session bill. (Yes, I've had multiple BIS's with this strategy.)
 Dark Mirage
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9/19/2020 10:55:34 AM reply with quote send message to Dark Mirage Object to Post

I occasionally session my Specials, especially in Show Obedience. I can't say I can prove it helps, but sometimes a dog that has dropped from Show placings to Group placings can be boosted back up into show placings with a few days of sessions. It seems to make a difference enough that I do it.

I will session Show Obedience at least 5 days past 20. The other stats will come up to max on 1777 food on their own within a few days. If money is tight, drop a fully-sessioned dog that has been at all 20's for several days onto a cheaper food. I tend to forget, but if money is tight, it makes a big difference.

The jury is out on whether a fully-sessioned bitch produces better pups--- condition is essential, but I tend to session most of my brood bitches if I have money/sessions for it. It doesn't always work, but a few times I've bred one, then sessioned her, then bred again to the same stud and the later litters tended to do better in the ring. Just remember to stop her sessions once she's where you want if you have her on kennel assistants and forget about her... ask me how I know! laugh :D
 Killick
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9/19/2020 7:05:25 PM reply with quote send message to Killick Object to Post

this post has been edited 3 time(s)

I will session a potential brood bitch in muscle tone only, if I don't plan to show that girl. An older girl I buy intending to breed gets 7777 or 1777 for a few days if they aren't 20 in condition and are low in muscle tone ( and will session for). Or 1171 for condition only.
If a brood bitch or a stud is low in tone but 20 in condition, I often put them on Adult muscle tone formula.
I figure Coat condition and show Obedience aren't needed for breeding only.
Case in point,

https://www.showdog.com/dog.aspx?id=17341257

C

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Last edited by Killick on 9/19/2020 7:05:57 PM

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Last edited by Killick on 9/19/2020 7:09:06 PM

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Last edited by Killick on 9/19/2020 7:10:36 PM

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The figure 8 exercise requires the team to heel in a figure 8 pattern either on or off leash. Generally two of the ring stewards will assist the judge with this exercise by acting as "posts", standing 8 feet apart, that the team walks around to form the loops of the figure 8.